Friday, August 6, 2010

Following Alan Stewart and Will Summers




Alan and Will bought a small car with camping gear in Cairns, Australia, and are driving to Sidney via places of interest.   You can follow their adventures this month at  http://sailnaway.blogspot.com/



Sunday, August 1, 2010

Changes Onboard

Quite a few changes happening on the EYE while in Cairns Australia, with all the crew changes. Alan and Will are cleaning up and packing up, as they leave the EYE. Alan Witt will be coming on in a few days to replace them.


Alan and Will have bought a car ($700) complete with tent, stove, cooking utensils etc… They have till the 18th to tour around before their flight home when they hope to sell the car. This a much cheaper alternative then staying at a youth hostel and lets them really play tourist.

I’m not exactly sure when Adam, Amanda, and the new Alan plan to sail. Paul and I will naturally continue to follow the EYE as always, but we will not be able to continue this blog.  Please send me an email if you are interested in taking it over.  Thanks.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Land Ho

7/28/2010
We are about 15 miles from Carins harbor yayayayay! We have BB coverage now. Its still very windy and actually quite rough still even inside the reef but we see land LAND HO!!!


On sunday evening on Will's watch a boobie bird committed suicide by trying to land on our wind generator and in so doing broke two of its blades. We have been trying to conserve power since then so as not to have to run the motor hence no emails yesterday. Will said the bird landed in the water right next to him like a big wet rag hitting the water and wasn't moving.

Anyway, we should be anchored in Carins hopefully before sunset tonight
 
7/29/2010
We are cleared in now customs and quarantine done. Shower (much needed) and laundry doing soon and eating of course. Australia is so beautiful and everyone is interesting or quirky and all have been very nice. The customs lady that cleared us in was a hasher (what are the odds) and offered us a ride to the next hash. Pretty cool I thought.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Swells on the Ocean

Alan sent the following update:

Saturday 7/24, Day 6
Later yesterday evening we swapped the #3 for the storm jib for the night. We had some squalls come through and rain that brought some stronger winds (25knots steady with higher gusts). We averaged 5.1 knots through the night and this morning, after one last squall and the wind settled a little bit we decided to put the #3 back up for the day if the wind doesn't pipe up again.


Overall the seas have been very impressive lately. Large rolling swells from multiple directions, wind trails across the water, cresting waves at the top of the biggest water mountains (that occasionally turn the cockpit in to a bath tub), but our little boat just keeps bobbing over it all.

230Nm to the great barrier reef as of 1pm today. Then another couple days and we're there!
 
Then in another email he mentioned the swells:
Ssome of the swells i have seen on this crossing and the sustained winds have been the biggest and strongest that i have ever seen. :) I've taken some good videos to show you. But they never seem to do the swells justice.


They say that once you've seen them (big swells or wind) once your immune from the "OH MY GOD!" initial reaction until you see something BIGGER. So some people are not surprised by any of it. It seems universally accepted however that the swells and wind down in the "roaring 40's" latitudes trump all and make a trade wind crossing of the pacific look like a lazy river. I imagine that our "storm" doesn't amount to much in comparison. When i think it looks rough out here, i just remind myself of that.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Onward to Australia


Well they weathered their first big storm,  and much has happened since. The EYE posts provide some information on their visit to Vanuata. While there, Alan told us they managed to get the motor working right, the head repaired, but the main sheet which tore during the storm will have to wait repair till they get to Australia, it can be used in a reefed position.

I apologize for being so busy that I haven’t kept this updates.  We still enjoy daily emails and updates from Alan and I’ve tried to do some catch up below with his emails since they sailed from Vanuata.

Monday July 19 - Day 1
We had a great time exploring Vanuatu with highlights including seeing a volcano as we entered the island group, Snorkeling at Million Dollar Point, and enjoying some new and interesting foods. We left Luganville yesterday at 2 in the afternoon headed for Carins, Australia.

We have been sailing under Mizzen and Storm Jib with no need for our main so far due to strong trades that should continue for the rest of this week we hope. We are making around 6 knots average on a broad reach almost due west. The swells are around 3-4 meters (about 12 feet) from the SE and we have roughly 950Nm before we reach the great barrier reef with a further 200 after that to Carins.

It's a little rolly onboard and the cockpit is a little wet but were all up for it and happy to be on the move. Australia here we come.

Tuesday July 20, Day 2
The wind had subsided enough that we put the #1 headsail up around noon and the cockpit is drying out nicely. It's still a little rolly below but were all getting our sea legs by now. We've knocked out about 125Nm in the last noon to noon run.

We bought some fresh provisions in Vanuatu including about six short baguette breads, 2 bread loafs, 8 grapefruit, 2 cucumbers, a bunch of onions, and potatoes. Having fresh foods is so nice but they won't last forever. One of our breads is already getting a little fuzzy. We also expect that we will have to turn over all of our foreign canned meats when we get to Carins due to Australia's strict policies so we'd better start eating all that spam and luncheon meat. Yum Yum.

Wednesday July 21, day 3
Today has been a lazy day. Everyone is going through the phase of a crossing where mostly you just sleep or lay in your bunk, eat, or sit in the cockpit at your watch. The days are starting to mush together as we lock into our rotation schedule.

Before leaving, I thought it would be a good idea to clean up a little so I stowed everything below my bunk and made quite a bit of room for myself by organizing some things. Unfortunately, after our first night I realized that all my stuff that had been piled in my bunk with me was actually what was keeping me from rolling back and forth in the night. It took me a long time to find a sufficiently body constraining position that allowed me to get to sleep. What a weird problem to have. "Not enough stuff with you in the bed to fall asleep". Oh well.

The wind has been fluctuating between around 10 and 15knots from the SE and although the swells have settled down considerably, it has been pretty choppy today with about equal 2-3ft swell from the S, SE, and E. We still have the #1 headsail up and making good speed. We have been getting a lot of dew lately at night and today has felt very hazy and muggy. During the day, the sun is hot hot hot and with the hatches closed the cabin can get a little gross. Thankfully we were able to open the boat up a little in a lull and get some fresh air through the boat.

Were about 630Nm from the great barrier reef. About 230 miles from being halfway there, and about 180 miles from our next time zone change which will put us in Eastern Australia time. 14 hours ahead of Eastern US time.

Thursday Day 4, July 22
Winds have picked up steadily today and shifted slightly to the south. Just before sundown we swapped the #1 headsail for the #3 and the mainsail. The swells have been building also and are around 8ft or so now from the ESE.

For dinner Will had dreams of a cheeseburger. What resulted was a slice of fried SPAM with hunks of our "last a long time" cheese that comes in a box all rolled up in a pancake bun! It's the closest thing I've had to a cheeseburger in 4 days and very inventive. 2 thumbs up from this cheeseburger critic.

Friday Day 5, July 23 
We dropped the main sometime in the night and the wind has kept building all morning from the ESE to around 20 knots now with larger swells back up around 10-12 feet like we had seen at the beginning of the crossing. We're (konck on wood) about 3 days from the great barrier reef. Not sure how much umph the reef will take out of this trade wind swell but with any luck it will calm down a little.

All is well, counting down the miles.

Monday, July 12, 2010

Their First Big Storm

Woke up this morning to this very long email from Alan dated July 11th, describing the storm they had just passed through.  Possibly it is the storm Paul mentioned in yesterdays post; he could see by comparing uGRIB with SPOT that the EYE and that big storm were headed away from each other.  But he  had no idea where the storm was relative to their position the previous day.  We were not sure how bad their encounter with it might have been. uGrib indicated plenty of 40 mph winds.


Alan's Report:

That's what I would call it. We've been through smaller squalls and heavy downpours before but nothing that I would call a "real storm" until now. It was around 3pm on July 10th, 2010 and we were 2 days out from Fiji headed for the island of Tanna in Vanuatu with about 300 Nm to go when...

We were watching a movie in the cockpit with a light wind from behind and making around 4 knots with the main and #1 headsail wing on wing. We could see a rain shower approaching from the East and soon it was drizzling and down went the computer into the cabin. Will and I also retreated into the cabin and Adam and Amanda were left on deck for their watch. The drizzle turned into a downpour and the wind built to a little over 10 knots accompanied by a sudden shift to the North. We were used to this by now since the smaller rain squalls we had encountered had all come with shifts usually to the north. We were now blasting along at 8knots and up with full sails boring down on a course of SSW. Will and I shut and dogged down all the hatches and pretty soon came the call from on deck, "Lets drop the jib." Will and I donned our foul weather gear and harnesses and came up on deck. Almost instantly we were soaked.

The Jib was set out with the whisker pole to starboard which meant that we couldn't turn from a course of dead down wind until it was dropped. Usually we would do this by jibing the mainsail (which was on port) over to "blanket" the jib and relieve the pressure of the wind so that the pole could be removed and then the sail lowered or jibed or whatever was called for. In this case we were hesitant to jibe the main due to the strength of the wind as this can be a hairy maneuver. The real problem was that we assumed this would be a passing shower like we had experienced before and we waited too long to shorten sail. We could see the back end of the squall on radar and decided to wait a little longer and see if the wind shifted or died down a little. It didn't so we enacted plan B which was to drop the headsail without removing the spinnaker pole first. We'd never tried this before but it seemed do-able so with Will at the bow ready to bunch up the sail and I at the mast lowering the halyard we gave it a go. Will managed to pull the sail in as it was lowered and kept it out of the water and as soon as most of it was under control, I unpinned the whisker pole and secured it on deck. Mission accomplished. With the jib down, we were able to turn to starboard and get back on a westward course. About 30 min later, the wind and rain subsided and we continued along this way for the next hour or so.

It was now my watch and it was raining. We were on course with just a full mainsail up making 7 knots or better. (In hindsight we waited too long to reef here too) Another rain line came up from behind accompanied with another shift, more rain, and more wind. It was like nothing I had ever seen before (and no, this isn't the storm yet). Screaming along doing 8 knots or better with rain so thick you couldn't see in any direction for more than a couple of boat lengths. There was so much rain it seemed to beat the choppy waves down into smooth rollers. It was getting darker by the minute and I called down for a reef in the main. Will and Adam clamored up from below and 10 minutes later the boat felt much better with the first reef point in the mainsail. The wind subsided gradually during my watch but the rain was more or less a constant. By the time I passed the watch off to Will at 8pm the sky had mostly broken and some start were even visible. Little did we know that the real test was yet to come.

It was now around 8:30pm and although Will had just started his watch, everyone down below was as close to being fast asleep as you can get in a rolling boat. I was awoken by the sound of the wind generator first. It's usual whirring and typical vibration that we have all become accustomed to was stronger than ever and out of curiosity I leaned over to check the amperage output on our power meter. The highest I saw it hit was 32amps. If you don't have experience with small wind generators then just trust me that that was a lot. The boat was vibrating in an odd way and having lived on the boat for almost 8 months it was easy to be aware of any "abnormal sounds" and they usually wake you right up from a dead sleep. Our wind generator is designed to "brake" itself when the wind is too strong (50knots or more according to the manual) or when the battery voltage indicates that the batteries are full. I could hear the wind gen braking which was normal but the sound that came next wasn't. A loud screeching sort of noise like a cross between a blender and a dying helicopter could be heard from up top and within moments Will called down for us. Adam roused me out of bed, "Were gonna drop the main and put up the storm jib, and by the way what is that noise?" We threw on our jackets and harnesses and Adam was first out of the hatch. He called down to me, "It's the wind gen, just turn it off." The wind gen has a manual brake feature which I engaged with the flip of a switch but it was obviously not working as the noise just continued as loud as ever. The entire time we worked on deck the sound of the screeching wind generator was with us. At times I was afraid the blades would shatter and be thrown down onto us but there was little we could do about it at the time.

Once on deck the realness of the situation was upon us. There was more wind and more rain than I have ever before seen from a boat. With the single reefed main, we had too much canvas up and a quick inspection of the main revealed that it had already blown out. There was now a two and a half foot vertical tear just forward of the second reef pennant that had probably happened just moments ago. Will was fighting the helm and Adam clipped in and started pulling the rest of the mainsail down from the mast. I clipped in and followed on the port side wrestling the main around the boom and strapping it down. I continued to get the boat "right" by helping Will to lower the bimini and coil and unfoul sheets and halyards and stowing unnecessary items from the cockpit. Adam came up with the storm jib and began hanking it on. I was tempted to go below for the anemometer to measure the wind speed but I was obviously needed on deck and anyway, I'm not sure it would have survived the rain. Everything takes an exponentially longer amount of time in higher wind and the rain felt like we were being shot with tiny bb gun pellets. Every step and movement on the slippery deck is one that could end in a slip over the rail or into a sharp cleat or the corner of a winch drum. Of course you don't think about that in the moment, you just do whatever needs doing. Adam called that he was ready from the bow but voice communication was pretty much useless unless you were talking into the person's ear. The wind drowned out everything but the whistling of the rigging and the spray onto the deck. We hoisted the storm jib and hardened the sheets. The boats motion calmed, the apparent wind was reduced, and we were "running" with the storm.

We regrouped back in the cockpit with the boat now under control and hauling butt downwind on a port tack. Will took a look at the chart plotter. We were headed EAST! We got set to jibe and after a quick WHOMP of the storm jib we were on course again making good speed. Just then the chart plotter took a turn for the worst. Our best guess is that it decided that it was tired so it shut itself off. We could awaken it but only for a few minutes at a time. We unplugged it and sent it down below to dry off.

The wind was beginning to subside a little and with Will steering by compass alone Adam and I, soaked to the bone, retreated to the cabin leaving Will to finish out his watch. I had a restless night listening to the wind and battling the books and cloths that I shared my bunk with. A leaky window right above the quarter berth certainly didn't help. I was already awake at 5am when my watch started and I came on deck to find that most of the wind had subsided and the mizzen sail had been set in the night. We were making little progress and mostly just rolling at the mercy of the confused chop. At sunrise, I traded out the storm jib for the #3 headsail and by 8am when Will came up on deck, we had blue skies and a light southerly wind. We set the double reefed main and #1 headsail and started drying out. We had survived our first "real storm."

In daylight, the casualties of the night were reviewed: The mainsail, torn below the second reef point is still usable in the double reefed configuration. Adam opened up the chart plotter and discovered that it leaked through a small hatch where the electronic chart chip is inserted. Efforts to repair it have failed so far. With no chartplotter, our radar and AIS capability is down too. Our next best piece of gear is Will's iphone which he equipped with detailed charts of the pacific before coming on the trip. Without the iphone we would be without charts for the island of Tanna and forced to change our destination to Port Vila further North which we have paper charts for. The wind generator seems to be working normally this morning so far which is a relief. We suspect that the terrible noise we heard could have been the emergency brake feature but I doubt that we saw 50knots at any point but who knows. After getting the storm jib up we turned on our steaming light to help illuminate the sail for the helmsman and to make us more visible but that too died in the night possibly due to all the rain.

All in all, we were very lucky that wind and rain and not giant waves were all that we faced. The swell and chop was relatively flat through it all. No one was injured and we made it through unscathed and in good spirits. Today we are making good progress under #1 headsail, double reefed main, and mizzen and with the wind dying, we turned on the motor around 2pm to keep up our pace. We have mostly blue skies with scattered clouds, the sun has dried our all of our soggy gear and a large pot of pasta has restored our energy. Nothing worth having ever comes easily and we hope the island of Tanna is good as they say it is.

Alan

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Moving away from a storm

On Sunday morning (Saturday, 10 July 2010 at 10:41pm Eastern Time),  Alan Stewart sent the following storm email message by radio:  "We are doing fine. We have a strong safe boat and it is taking good care of us."

At that time the SPOT position data and weather data from uGrib indicated that they are headed NW away from the storm.  The storm was to the south of them and was at that time headed away from them towards the SE.



Image of SPOT position data

 


Image of Weather data from uGrib: 
a storm south of Fiji packing 40 mph winds
on Sunday morning (Saturday night June 10, 2010 eastern time)


Update:  (Sunday July 11 10:30am eastern time)

Here is a weather forecast from the Fiji Meterological Service which is an agency of the Fijian government:

Marine Weather Bulletin Issued from the National Weather Forecasting Centre Nadi at 1:30am on Monday the 12th of July 2010

A STRONG WIND WARNING REMAINS IN FORCE FOR NORTHERN VANUA LEVU, NORTHERN LAU, YASAWA AND MAMANUCA WATERS, KORO SEA, VATU-I-RA PASSAGE AND SOUTHERN LAU WATERS.


Situation:
An active trough of low pressure with associated rain and thunderstorms over Vanua Levu is gradually moving eastwards.

Forecast to midnight tonight for Fiji waters:  For Yasawa and Mamanuca, northern Vanua Levu, Northern Lau waters,  Koro Sea, Vatu-i-ra passage and Southern Lau:       West to southwest winds 20 to 25 knots, easing to 15 to 20 knots later today.  Moderate to rough seas, rough in squalls . Moderate southwest swells.  Poor visibility in areas of heavy rain and thunderastorms.    Further outlook: Southwest winds 15 to 20 knots.


For the rest of Fiji waters:   West to southwest winds 15 to 20 knots.  Moderate seas,rough in squalls. Moderate southwest swells. Poor visibility in areas of heavy rain and thunderastorms.  Further outlook: Southwest winds 15 to 20 knots.


And latest weather data from uGrib....